WIT Press

Some Geometrical Properties Of Regular Waves In The Surf Zone

Price

Free (open access)

Paper DOI

10.2495/MAR950221

Volume

9

Pages

8

Published

1995

Size

602 kb

Copyright

WIT Press

Author(s)

M.T. Reis & T.S. Hedges

Abstract

Experiments were performed to investigate certain aspects of the geometry of spilling and plunging breakers at the breaking point and at three other locations within the surf zone. The work was conducted in a laboratory channel using regular waves propagating towards beaches with slopes of 1:8, 1:20 and 1:50. Measurements at the breaking point on the 1:20 and 1:50 slopes have been compared with Coda's [1] results. There are some significant differences. However, measurements of the wave run-up confirm the validity of Hunt's |2] formula for the various test conditions used in this study. Figures are presented containing data in a form suitable for the designers of coastal struct

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