WIT Press


Wave Directionality In Shallow Water

Price

Free (open access)

Paper DOI

10.2495/CE010131

Volume

58

Pages

16

Published

2001

Size

1,243 kb

Author(s)

C.D. Memos, A. Tsiachris

Abstract

Wave directionality plays a major role in port and coastal engineering applications. In the present overview directionality is examined and how it can be expressed analytically in terms of the energy spreading function. It is also shown how the numerical models currently in use can be deduced. Some common methods of analysing field measurements are reviewed, and finally a new array geometry of probes is proposed, to obtain the transformation of the energy spread function as the waves propagate inshore. 1 Directionality of water waves Water waves travel along a direction that depends on the frequency of each wave component and changes in space and time for a changing wind field and varying topography. Wave directionality is quite important in engineering applications since it affects crucially the layout of port installatio

Keywords