WIT Press

Modelling Of Wave Transformation Across The Inner Surf Zone And Swash Oscillations On Beaches

Price

Free (open access)

Paper DOI

10.2495/CE990081

Volume

43

Pages

10

Published

1999

Size

715 kb

Author(s)

P. Bonneton, S. Vincent, H. Dupuis and R. Pedreros

Abstract

A numerical model based on a high order non-oscillatory MacCormack TVD scheme is presented for the solution of the non-linear Saint Venant equa- tions in surf and swash zones. A comparison with measurements of surface elevations on a beach (True Vert Beach, France), shows that the model is capable of predicting accurately the transformation of irregular waves in the surf zone. 1 Introduction Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones plays a major role in sediment transport and beach evolution. In the inner surf zone spilling breakers have bore-like shape. Li

Keywords