Author(s)

S. Diposaptono and A. Mano

Abstract

Wave field around Abukuma river mouth plays important role for the formation of sand barrier at the mouth. Observation of the wave field has scarcely been done in the Abukuma river mouth. Therefore, the wave field is analyzed by means of numerical simulation through the parabolic equation which includes wave-current interaction. Current pattern around the mouth is simulated using depth-averaged continuity and momentum equations which include roller due to breaking phenomena. Wave climate data for the analysis was obtained from Japan NOWPHAS. From the data, it was found that the incident wave develop in the Pacific Ocean having dominant direction ESE. Waves are refracted by terrace topography in the front of the mouth, which sup

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