Author(s)

Y. Watanabe & H. Saeki

Abstract

Two-dimensional wave motion in a surf zone was numerically solved to obtain temporal and spatial characteristics of the velocity field and energy dissi- pation, and these results were compared with measurements by the particle im- age velocimetry. This direct numerical analysis can express splash-up and propa- gation of a front bore with large vortexes after breaking. The characteristics of vorticity and energy dissipation for a plunging breaker, which vary in a compli- cated manner with space and time, were also investigated. 1 Introduction To investigate the mechanisms of sediment transportation in a surf zone, time-averaged fluid velocities, such as return current and nearshore current, or the turbulence field which occurs by impulsive fluid force, have been studied. For the former, t

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