Author(s)

S.T. Grilli & J. Horrillo

Abstract

Modeling of fully nonlinear periodic wave propagation over a sloping bottom S.T. Grilli, J. Horrillo Department of Ocean Engineering, University of Rhode Island, Narragansett, Rhode Island 02882, USA I Introduction A two-dimensional (2D) fully nonlinear potential flow model (FNPF) based on a higher-order Boundary Element Method (BEM) and on a time stepping [4,6,7] is used to propagate periodic finite amplitude surface waves over both plane slopes and over more realistic bottom topography found in natural beaches (Fig. 1). Deep water incident waves are generated in the model, over constant depth ho, using the exact kinematics obtained from a streamfunction wave solution [3]. In order to use a computational region with constant volume, the increase in volume due to the nonlinear mass flux of incident waves is eliminated by specifying waves on top of an opposite current equal in magnitude to their period- and depth-averaged mass transport velocity. In calculating this current,

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