WIT Press

Shoreline Behind A Breakwater For Wave Energy Absorption In Reggio Calabria: Comparison Between Theoretical Models And Experimental Data


Free (open access)

Paper DOI






Page Range

237 - 248




753 kb


G. Barbaro & G. Foti


This paper deals with models proposed for calculating the shoreline change behind a breakwater. In particular, models developed by Hsu and Silvester, McCormick, Gonzalez and Medina and Hsu et al. are discussed. Shoreline change behind a breakwater is estimated by these models. Results are compared with experimental data measured at the NOEL laboratory of Reggio Calabria, for a caisson breakwater for wave energy absorption made using nine cellular caissons in reinforced concrete. The structure is 16.2 m long and located in a 2 m water depth. Waves in the undisturbed wave field are measured at the same water depth, 20 m away from the structure, by means of two pressure transducers and two ultrasonic probes located on two piles of small diameter (0.05 m). Tide is measured by probes in the undisturbed wave field and by pressure transducers on the breakwater. Keywords: shoreline, breakwater, modelling, salient, tombolo. 1 Introduction Caisson breakwaters are widely used for shoreline protection. Their target is to induce accretion of the shore, in order to protect it from erosion processes, and, further, to increase the attraction of the location. With this purpose, they create a safe basin and, at the same time, they modify the cross-shore circulation. There has been an increasing use of caisson breakwaters for coastal protection during the last two decades.


shoreline, breakwater, modelling, salient, tombolo